For more than 5000 years, silk was an integral part of life in China. was seen as precious as gold and was also used as a form of currency; back then, silk wasn't just a piece of fabric; it was a symbol of wealth and power. Because of this, the ruling elite used strict social laws to control who could wear it.
Ancient China and social classes
- Scholars - the ruling Elite, highly respected, educated and government officials.
- Farmers - They were highly valued because they produced food.
- Artisans - skilled craftsmen and workers were appreciated because they created material goods and tools.
- Merchants - Traders and business people; surprisingly, merchants sat at the very bottom because they merely traded stuff made by others rather than producing anything.
Interestingly, unlike many societies where status depends on birth, China allowed people to rise through education. The imperial examination system helped talented scholars become government officials; however, it turned into the new standard. The scholars were highly respected, but the dominance of one community overshadowed the others.
Why merchants were disliked
Ancient Chinese society was heavily influenced by Confucianism, which valued people according to their contributions to society.
Farmers grew food for people to eat; hence, people needed them to survive.
Artisans made goods, and scholars governed and educated others; however, they mainly traded goods made by others. In the eyes of the people, they didn't have a special ability; hence, the merchants, who basically contributed nothing to society, were at the bottom of the scale.
The imperial examination system:
Mostly young men took the exams; they would study for years for it, as it required a lot of knowledge about:
- mathematics
- writing and calligraphy
- literature
- Legal matters
- Government matters
The exams were extremely tough. Those who cleared the exam would participate in another exam; the emperor himself would supervise the last round.
Those who pass will rule the country.
The ruling on clothes:
There were many kinds of silk; silk was reserved only for elite people and those who ruled the country. The merchants were strictly forbidden from wearing silk; they could wear clothing of cotton material. These restrictions reinforced the social hierarchy by reminding lower-class merchants that economic wealth did not automatically grant them higher social status(which is totally opposite these days). There were many rules about the clothes:
- Although commoners could wear simple silk garments, they were forbidden from wearing silk adorned with gold embroidery or flower designs, as such decorations were symbols of higher status.
- The officials below eighth grade were forbidden to wear flower patterns.
- Common people could only wear ornaments made of iron or brass. Jade, gold and stuff were reserved for higher-class people.
Anyone could easily tell if someone was from the upper class or the lower class just by the style of clothing; they made it very obvious who was in charge. Those who did not follow the rules would be severely punished; they even had different punishments for different classes of people.
Today's reality —
Today the system is officially dead but culturally alive. The hierarchy, however, has flipped. Merchants and business owners are highly respected due to their wealth and sit at the top. Meanwhile, many farmers are trapped at the bottom, struggling economically every year; millions of students take the Gaokao(national Chinese exam) every year, chasing a better life and hoping for a brighter future.
Ancient China:
Society cared a lot about rank and status. Being a scholar or government official brought respect and power.
The imperial examination system was one of the few ways to climb the social ladder.
Modern China:
Society still places enormous importance on educational success.
Doing well on the Gaokao can lead to a prestigious university, a good job, and higher social status. Families often invest huge amounts of time and money into preparing for it. The importance attached to the Gaokao also creates immense pressure. Many students spend years preparing for the examination, and families often make significant sacrifices to support them. The exam is widely viewed as a life-changing opportunity, reflecting the enduring belief that academic success can determine one's future and social position.
“Many scholars argue that China's intense focus on the Gaokao reflects a long-standing cultural emphasis on education and social mobility that dates back to the imperial examination system.”
From ancient to modern times, China's belief in education and social mobility remained strong. The social classes have changed, but the pursuit of status and success continues to shape Chinese society, which can be good cause the youth believe they can succeed and have a better future by studying, which is partially true.
Reference:
- University of California San Diego https://share.google
- World History Encyclopedia – Imperial Examination https://www.worldhistory.org
- Encyclopaedia Britannica – Gaokao https://www.britannica.com